In Gumusluk, photo by Yilmaz Oevuenc via Flickr
As one of Turkey’s most popular summer capitals, Bodrum swells with people, noise and entertainment between July and September. Overlooking the harbor, the 15th-century crusader castle still inspires romance that’s played out in hand-held strolls along the marina, close dancing in the nightclubs, and canoodling on the beaches. Trying to get a good picture of that unforgettable moment, however, gets more challenging as the thick tourist crowds jostle for position among the narrow streets. Fortunately, equal romance and greater tranquility lies in many places on a 4×4 Jeep Tour of the Bodrum Peninsula, including these three favorites.
Yalikavak
In summer, Yalikavak glitters most on the Bodrum peninsula. Not for any increase in sunshine, but for the accessorized bling worn by Turkish wealthy elites, who’ve made Yalikavak a second home. The Yalikavak marina is the most modern in Turkey and welcomes luxury yachts by the dozens. It’s also home to the Bodrum branch of the Billionaires nightclub which pulses away the nights. Nonetheless, the village is worth a visit, especially on market day, for the gorgeous green hills, tangerine groves, and blue flag beaches. In the hills north of town (car required), several secluded coves are used by locals for swimming.
Gümüşlük
Staunchly Bohemian in philosophy, Gumusluk remains one of the most happily undeveloped areas of the peninsula, largely due to the official environmental protection the surrounding hillsides enjoy. Under sections of the water, there are visible remains of the ancient city of Myndos, which partially collapsed into the sea during an earthquake. The beach area is lined with appropriately sized cafes and eateries, the best of which serve the day’s catch from the local fishermen. It’s a good idea to leave your technology on shore if crossing the underwater stone path to Rabbit Island. It’s slippery and falls are common.
Sandima
The abandoned village, Sandima, in the hills above Yalikavak still claims exactly one resident, the artist İsmail Erkoca. He and his wife, Nurten Değirmenci (who no longer resides there) restored a complex of former houses, transforming them into a sort of artistic wonderland called Nuris Sanat Evi. If Ismail is in the mood, he may offer a tour of the house, decorated like no other, but a Turkish translator is essential, especially for Erkoca’s often colorful turns of phrase. Take a bit of time to walk around the village as well.