Ankara’s Citadel. Photo courtesy of David Stanley via Flickr.
Ankara’s lofty Citadel (‘Hisar’ or ‘Kale’ in Turkish) can be seen from almost anywhere in the city. Perched atop a hill in the heart of the Turkish capital, it is one of the most recognizable symbols of Ankara.
But a visit to this iconic citadel is about much more than just seeing the imposing fortress itself. Inside you’ll find the ancient foundations of Ankara, which may date back to Hittite times some 3,000 years ago, which provide a glimpse of what ancient Turkey might have looked like.
The Ankara citadel has two sections: the inner and the outer castle. The current walls of the outer citadel were constructed by the Byzantine emperor Michael II in the 800s, while the walls of the inner keep date to the 600s. The structures within and around the walls are some of the oldest authentic examples of traditional Turkish architecture in the country. Many of the old houses (called konaks) here have been restored and converted into restaurants, many of which feature extensive menus as well as terrific views of the city from their terraces. In the street you’ll find that locals still live as if they were in a traditional Anatolian village, with children playing amongst the crumbling historic buildings and carpet shops. Also within the Citadel is a small mosque, the Alaettin Camii, originally built in the 1100s, which houses some fine examples of Selcuk art and wood craftsmanship.
Make your way through the village towards the flight of concrete stairs at the end and climb up to the Şark Kulesi (Eastern Tower) for a magnificent panoramic view. The highest point, however, is the Ak Kale (White Fortress), the walls’ northern tower.
Since you’re in the area, you should also consider a visit to the nearby Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, located near the entrance gate of the citadel. The museum is housed in a beautifully restored portion of an old caravanserai and is one of Turkey’s finest museums, containing artifacts stretching from the Paleolithic and Neolithic eras through to the Hatti, Hittite, Phrygian, Urartu and Roman civilizations.